{"id":561,"date":"2019-12-24T16:14:10","date_gmt":"2019-12-24T08:14:10","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/120.24.183.239\/?p=561"},"modified":"2024-12-19T18:58:17","modified_gmt":"2024-12-19T10:58:17","slug":"bushixiangqimoluogedexigua","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/austinzhang.com\/?p=561","title":{"rendered":"\u4e0d\u65f6\u60f3\u8d77\u6469\u6d1b\u54e5\u7684\u897f\u74dcI occasionally think of the watermelons from Morocco"},"content":{"rendered":"

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\nTRIFA\u3002
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\n\"\"<\/a>
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\n\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a>
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\n\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a>
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\n\u820d\u592b\u6c99\u4e07\u4e3a\u8a89\u4e3a\u84dd\u8272\u4e4b\u57ce\uff0c\u4ece\u9ad8\u5904\u671b\u53bb\uff0c\u770b\u4f3c\u4e00\u4e2a\u84dd\u8272\u6e56\u6cca\u3002\u9633\u5149\u5c04\u5728\u5c0f\u5df7\u5b50\u91cc\u7684\u84dd\u8272\u548c\u767d\u8272\u5899\u9762\u4e0a\u6620\u51fa\u884c\u4eba\u548c\u7269\u4f53\uff0c\u6070\u597d\u6784\u6210\u4e00\u5e45\u5e45\u5b8c\u7f8e\u753b\u9762\u3002\u6211\u5c3d\u53ef\u80fd\u5730\u907f\u5f00\u4eba\u7269\u6b63\u9762\u62cd\u6444\uff0c\u53ef\u662f\u5f53\u9047\u5230\u4e00\u4f4d\u905b\u9e1f\u7684\u6469\u6d1b\u54e5\u963f\u62c9\u4f2f\u8001\u4eba\u65f6\uff0c\u4ed6\u5374\u8ba9\u6211\u4e0d\u77e5\u6240\u63aa\u3002
\n\"\"<\/a>
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\n\u8fd9\u662f\u771f\u662f\u4e00\u4e2a\u795e\u5947\u7684\u56fd\u5bb6\uff0c\u5bf9\u8fd9\u91cc\u7684\u4eba\u6211\u65e0\u6cd5\u901a\u8fc7\u51e0\u6b21\u65c5\u884c\u548c\u62cd\u6444\u6216\u8005\u4e0e\u4e0d\u540c\u7684\u4eba\u804a\u5929\u4e86\u89e3\u771f\u5b9e\u7684\u4ed6\u4eec\u3002\u8d8a\u662f\u5982\u6b64\uff0c\u6211\u597d\u5947\u5fc3\u8d8a\u91cd\uff0c\u5c31\u8d8a\u4f1a\u63a5\u89e6\u66f4\u591a\u7684\u4eba\uff0c\u6ca1\u6709\u611f\u89c9\u538c\u70e6\u3002\u53ef\u662f\u6709\u4e00\u6837\u4e1c\u897f\u5374\u8ba9\u6211\u4e0d\u80fd\u56de\u60f3\u3002\u6469\u6d1b\u54e5\u6709\u5404\u79cd\u4f73\u80b4\u7f8e\u5473\uff0c\u5927\u90e8\u5206\u9910\u5385\u7684\u83dc\u5355\u7531\u51e0\u9053\u6469\u6d1b\u54e5\u83dc\u548c \u5730\u4e2d\u6d77\u83dc\u7cfb\u7ec4\u6210\uff0c\u4e00\u822c\u662f\u6cd5\u8bed\u548c\u963f\u62c9\u4f2f\u8bed\uff0c\u5c11\u6709\u82f1\u8bed\uff0c\u6211\u53ea\u89c1\u8fc7\u4e00\u4e2a\u83dc\u5355\u662f\u4e2d\u6587\u3001\u6cd5\u6587\u548c\u82f1\u6587\u7684\uff0c\u90a3\u662f\u4e00\u5bb6\u820d\u592b\u6c99\u4e07\u7684\u4e2d\u9910\u9986\u3002\u5728\u5927\u57ce\u5e02\u9910\u9986\uff0c\u524d\u83dc\u591a\u4e3a\u660e\u867e\u3001\u6c99\u62c9\uff0c\u4e3b\u98df\u6469\u6d1b\u54e5\u7279\u8272\u5c0f\u7f8a\u8089\u5c0f\u7c73\u996d\u3001\u901a\u5fc3\u7c89\uff0c\u800c\u5c0f\u57ce\u5e02\u6216\u9547\u5b50\u53ea\u6709\u5854\u5409\uff08tagine\uff09\uff0c\u571f\u8c46\u6ce5\uff0c\u70b8\u7f8a\u8089\u4e38\u5b50\u7b49\u3002\u53bb\u6492\u54c8\u62c9\u6c99\u6f20\u7684\u4e00\u8def\uff0c\u987f\u987f\u5854\u5409\uff0c\u4ee5\u81f3\u4e8e\u540e\u6765\u89c1\u5230\u5854\u5409\u5c31\u60f3\u5410\u3002\u4e8b\u5b9e\u4e0a\uff0c\u6469\u6d1b\u54e5\u5854\u5409\u662f\u5854\u5409\u9505\u4e0a\u653e\u5165\u9e21\u8089\u3001\u6d0b\u8471\u3001\u8543\u8304\u3001\u8461\u8404\u5e72\u3001\u9999\u83dc\u548c\u6469\u6d1b\u54e5\u7ea2\u82b1\u52a0\u5165\u80e1\u6912\u7c89\u3001\u90c1\u91d1\u9999\u7c89\u3001\u5308\u7259\u5229\u7ea2\u6912\u7c89\u548c\u8089\u6842\u7116\u5728\u4e00\u8d77\uff0c\u6709\u4e9b\u50cf\u6211\u4eec\u7684\u706b\u9505\uff0c\u5c5e\u4e8e\u6bd4\u8f83\u5065\u5eb7\u7684\u5403\u6cd5\u3002\u56de\u56fd\u540e\u7684\u4e00\u6bb5\u65f6\u95f4\uff0c\u6211\u7edd\u5bf9\u4e0d\u78b0\u706b\u9505\u53ef\u80fd\u4e0e\u5854\u5409\u6709\u5173\u7cfb\u3002
\n\u5728\u6469\u6d1b\u54e5\u65c5\u884c\u6700\u597d\u81ea\u9a7e\u6216\u81ea\u7531\u884c\uff0c\u5c3d\u91cf\u4e0d\u53c2\u52a0\u65c5\u884c\u56e2\u3002\u6162\u677f\u7684\u751f\u6d3b\u8282\u594f\uff0c\u5404\u79cd\u5386\u53f2\u6c89\u79ef\u7684\u8001\u57ce\u3001\u624b\u5de5\u5236\u54c1\u548c\u5404\u8272\u4eba\u7269\u90fd\u9700\u8981\u82b1\u8d39\u65f6\u95f4\u4ed4\u7ec6\u54c1\u5473\uff0c\u5728\u4e0d\u61c2\u6cd5\u8bed\u548c\u963f\u62c9\u4f2f\u8bed\u65f6\u6700\u597d\u80fd\u4e0b\u8f7d\u8f6f\u4ef6\u7528\u4e8e\u8ddf\u5f53\u5730\u4eba\u4ea4\u6d41\uff0c\u8fd9\u6837\u7684\u65c5\u884c\u624d\u5145\u6ee1\u4e50\u8da3\u3002\u6211\u559c\u6b22\u4f4f\u6c11\u5bbf\uff0c\u5c31\u662f\u5f53\u5730\u7279\u8272\u7684Riad\uff0c\u4f46\u662f\u4e00\u5b9a\u8981\u82b1\u65f6\u95f4\u7504\u522b\u627e\u5230\u5e72\u51c0\u7684\uff0c\u5e97\u5458\u53ef\u4ee5\u8bb2\u82f1\u8bed\u7684\uff0c\u6700\u597d\u662f\u90a3\u79cd\u8bbe\u8ba1\u611f\u5f88\u5f3a\u5145\u6ee1\u827a\u672f\u6c1b\u56f4\u7684Riad\u3002\u65c5\u884c\u62cd\u6444\u4e2d\u4e0e\u5f53\u5730\u4eba\u4ea4\u6d41\u6216\u4ea4\u96c6\u603b\u662f\u7ed9\u6211\u7559\u4e0b\u6df1\u523b\u5370\u8c61\uff0c\u90a3\u4e9b\u5f00\u5fc3\u7684\u4e0d\u5f00\u5fc3\u7684\u4e8b\u60c5\u5929\u5929\u53d1\u751f\uff0c\u6211\u603b\u662f\u628a\u4e8b\u4ef6\u8bb0\u5f55\u4e0b\u6765\u5f53\u505a\u6211\u4f5c\u54c1\u7684\u7d20\u6750\uff0c\u5982\u6b64\u53ef\u4ee5\u66f4\u597d\u5730\u56de\u5473\u53ca\u8ba4\u8bc6\u793e\u4f1a\u3002\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n\u53d1\u8868\u4e8e\u9999\u6e2f\u300a\u6f6e\u6e38\u300b\u6742\u5fd72018<\/p>\n

Morocco is worth visiting because its culture blends French, Spanish, and Arab elements. Educated people speak French, Arabic, and English, and behave very politely. Their homes have European-style decorations and feel casual and comfortable. I sensed this during my journey a few years ago when I took a ferry from Algeciras in southern Spain to the Moroccan town of Tangier and then traveled south. The Moroccans in Rabat and Casablanca are quite different from those in Marrakech and Chefchaouen. Most people in the Sahara Desert region speak only Berber and Arabic.<\/p>\n

This time, I flew from Barcelona, Spain, to Rabat, then traveled to Marrakech near Merzouga in the Sahara Desert, and finally went to Fes and Chefchaouen before returning to Spain.<\/p>\n

Due to photography, I needed to observe the local culture more carefully to discover the most captivating and moving aspects. Unfortunately, during my first shoot, I received several warnings prohibiting photography from passersby. I understand the taboos of photographing in Islamic countries, so I avoided directly portraying people, especially women. In Morocco\u2019s capital, Rabat, and Casablanca, it\u2019s relatively easy to take photos as long as you don\u2019t shoot people directly; few people mind. In Marrakech and Merzouga, people were casual about it, and sometimes they even encouraged me to take photos when they realized I was a photographer. However, it was much more challenging in Fes and Chefchaouen, where people would watch my every move with suspicion.<\/p>\n

One afternoon, while walking on the cobblestone streets of Chefchaouen looking for planned scenes, I came across a colorful food cart parked at a low corner of a house. The wall behind it was painted a large area of the signature blue of Chefchaouen. This color attracted me, so I approached to take a closer look. It turned out to be a snack cart, covered with orange canvas on three sides, leaving two square openings at the front resembling a house door. The cart was decorated with various flowers, and there was no one beside it. After I took a few shots, a middle-aged man came out of the house and asked if I had taken pictures of the cart. I replied that I had, and he requested that I delete the photos. He didn\u2019t seem unfriendly, but neither was he polite. After deleting the photos for him, I asked why I couldn\u2019t take pictures. He glanced at me and said that photographing took away his soul.<\/p>\n

When I returned to my accommodation that day and mentioned this to the owner, he said that some people believe everything has a soul, and tourists shouldn\u2019t take it away, so photographing anything is inappropriate. His words were validated in the old city of Fes, where while photographing an old city gate, a group of people gathered in the distance, and I could only see their backs in the frame. After I finished shooting, a middle-aged man told me I couldn\u2019t take pictures. He didn\u2019t make me delete the photos but just walked away. I felt confused and somewhat frustrated, unsure about where I could and couldn\u2019t take photos in the old city. However, in Rabat, Marrakech, and Merzouga, it was different. When we stopped by the roadside in the Sahara Desert, a group of camels was gathered around a deep well, with their owner drawing water for them. I asked the driver if I could take pictures of the camels and their owner, and he said I could shoot as much as I wanted. Still not entirely at ease, I asked him to check with the owner. They spoke Arabic, and the owner invited me to come closer. He told me to take as many photos as I wanted, saying that the well was at least 50 meters deep and that it takes at least an hour for the camels to drink. I quickly changed lenses to take close-up shots of the owner and the camels.<\/p>\n

Moroccan culture isn\u2019t exactly mysterious, but there are significant regional differences. People in the south are straightforward, while those in the north, especially in Fes and Chefchaouen, are more reserved. This may be due to the higher level of commercialization in the north, making them adept at dealing with others. The boys in the old city of Fes left me with a bad impression, and I referred to them as \u201cguides.\u201d When I was searching for scenes in the alleys, they would suddenly appear like ghosts, thinking I was lost, and would then insist on showing me the way. When I realized I was being trapped, I tried to shake them off, but they stuck to me like chewing gum, following me wherever I went. They demanded 20 euros, and when I threatened to call the police, he said 5 euros would suffice. After being scammed for 5 euros, I started to refuse all the kids in Morocco who offered to guide me. Asking adults for directions was mostly fine, but almost no one spoke clear English; they spoke Arabic and French, so I had to rely on gestures and directions. The mobile signal in the old city was poor, and my phone navigation sometimes failed, leading me to unnecessary detours. Later, I bought a map and studied it roughly before shooting, marking important intersections, and asking adult passersby for directions, which helped me avoid getting lost.<\/p>\n

The square in Marrakech is worth visiting, filled with countless snacks and vibrant activities at night, including various performances and games. It is one of the busiest squares in Africa and the world, known as Jemaa el-Fnaa. After leaving the square, I walked back to my accommodation, allowing me to observe the city\u2019s nighttime life.<\/p>\n

I passed by a watermelon stand where the vendor had just cut open a huge watermelon. The inherent fragrance of the watermelon instantly transported me back to my childhood. Every summer, my father’s workplace would distribute large watermelons\u2014some even bigger than basketballs. Whenever there was a watermelon distribution, our whole family would mobilize to transport it home, often from a hundred meters away. Watermelons would occasionally drop and crack open, releasing their unique aroma, making it impossible for me to resist devouring them.<\/p>\n

The smell took me far away to North Africa, and I wanted to buy one to enjoy back at my accommodation, eating it in big bites. However, the watermelons here were enormous, larger than three basketballs, and I couldn’t carry one by myself. I couldn\u2019t understand what the vendor was saying, but from his gestures, I gathered he wanted me to buy the freshly cut watermelon. Even a quarter of it was still quite large, so I gestured that I only wanted a small piece. He cut off a quarter, wrapped it in a plastic bag, and handed it to me. When I asked him how much it cost, he used a calculator to show me a number, which I calculated to be about 1.8 RMB.<\/p>\n

I took out 2 dirhams to give him, but he refused to accept it. I thought I must have miscalculated. He picked up a whole watermelon, pressed the same number on the calculator, and told me the entire watermelon was 2 dirhams. I was stunned\u2014such a large watermelon for just 1.8 RMB! That\u2019s about 7 cents per pound! I couldn\u2019t help but think how wonderful it would be if a whole train could transport these watermelons back to China.<\/p>\n

I still insisted on giving him 2 dirhams, but he smiled and declined, implying it was a gift for me. Carrying the watermelon back to my accommodation, I devoured that quarter in one go; it was sweet and juicy, leaving my lips sticky with pulp. I thought to myself how kind the Moroccans are. A small piece of watermelon didn\u2019t mean much, but it filled my heart as a Chinese person with sweetness. Later, whenever I recalled the unpleasant experience with the children who tried to guide me in the old city, the image of that watermelon vendor occupied a cherished place in my thoughts.<\/p>\n

Ralph, the owner of a guesthouse in Fes, has excellent English skills. He studied design in the United States and returned to Morocco to run his guesthouse, but he remains a professional designer. In addition to designing many guesthouses, he collaborates with Morocco’s largest mosaic factory to create products. He travels to China every year, working with partners in Guangzhou, Ningbo, and Shenzhen.<\/p>\n

During my stay at his beautiful Riad, he treated me to afternoon tea and took me to the mosaic factory, a two-story building with an olive stone furnace and workshop on the first floor and a showroom on the second, showcasing various handmade mosaic artworks worth purchasing and collecting. That evening, Ralph arranged for me to experience a unique Moroccan spa treatment at one of his two Riads. To celebrate our newfound friendship, he offered me a discount on the spa service.<\/p>\n

Just a five-minute walk from my guesthouse, I arrived at the Riad offering spa services, where a plump woman greeted me after I rang the bell. Ralph introduced me to the spa therapist, who led me upstairs to a room filled with the refreshing scent of essential oils. After Ralph left, the therapist asked me to change into cotton shorts and took me downstairs to the bathing area.<\/p>\n

I initially thought she would leave, but sensing my hesitation, she explained that Moroccan spa treatments require assistance from the therapist, specifically for hot stone baths. She instructed me to lie on a black stone slab, and warmth enveloped my back. She mentioned that it would take at least 15 minutes to prepare the hot water and other bathing products.<\/p>\n

As I lay there, she adjusted the water and gathered various essential oil bottles and towels. When the time was up, she began my wash, applying different essential oils from head to toe, reminding me of childhood experiences in public bathhouses. To my surprise, she was able to scrub away quite a bit of dirt. After rinsing me off, she repeated the process several times. The basement was hot and humid, with sweat pouring down.<\/p>\n

She offered me water and continued the treatment, and after several rounds, we finished. Upon exiting the steamy bathing area, I felt an overwhelming sense of renewal, as if I could float. When I returned upstairs to the massage table, she had changed into another outfit, still in a short skirt and tank top. The room was lit with fragrant candles, and soft French songs played in the background.<\/p>\n

As she skillfully massaged me, we chatted about her life. She and Ralph were classmates in high school, and after he returned from the U.S., he invited her to establish the hot stone spa. By then, she had already obtained a government-issued spa therapist license and had a thriving business. However, due to her five-year-old daughter, she insisted on making appointments to not interfere with her parenting.<\/p>\n

She mentioned that Morocco is an Islamic country, and while she is a believer, the culture here is more open and accepting than in other countries. She does not have to wear a veil like some Arab women and is free to do as she wishes. When I asked about any potential harassment from clients during spa treatments, she admitted there had been some instances, but they were few, as guests at this establishment are generally of a higher caliber.<\/p>\n

She recounted an incident with an American guest who became inappropriate during his treatment. When she warned him and ended the service, he continued to misbehave, prompting her to call the police. The American, feeling embarrassed, left the guesthouse that same night. She believes that the guests who stay here are kind-hearted. As for her choice of attire, she explained that given the humid and warm conditions in the bathing area and her fuller figure, she had little choice in what to wear while working.<\/p>\n

When traveling and shooting in Morocco, English is mainly usable in hotels, some guesthouses, and at the airport, while Arabic and French are widely spoken. Communication with Moroccan Arabs can be quite challenging, and I often find it difficult to distinguish between the local people, who may be a mix of Berbers, French, and Spanish. I rely on observing their friendliness to gauge whether I can communicate, interact, and take photos.<\/p>\n

From my experience, if people do not avoid me or appear uncomfortable while I’m shooting, there’s a good chance I can greet them or chat after taking their picture. However, this often depends on whether they speak English or Spanish, as most people do not.<\/p>\n

Chefchaouen, known as the “Blue City,” looks like a blue lake from above. The sunlight reflects off the blue and white walls in the narrow alleys, creating perfect scenes with passersby and objects. I try to avoid photographing people head-on, but I found myself at a loss when I encountered an elderly Moroccan Arab man walking his birds.<\/p>\n

Exiting a narrow alley, I came face to face with a wall where an elderly man in a white Arab robe sat on a small stool, dozing. The morning sun was warm and gentle, accompanied by the chirping of birds from the cages hanging on the wall. He seemed to be in a deep sleep. While shooting in Morocco, I only had my 35mm and 50mm lenses with me, as I hadn\u2019t brought a medium telephoto lens. To avoid waking him or being noticed while photographing him and the birds (which reminded me of a previous moment capturing cars), I quietly approached to within about two meters, took a quick shot, and turned to leave.<\/p>\n

Suddenly, he spoke, startling me. I wondered if he would want me to delete the photo, fearing I had captured his soul. His words were incomprehensible to me, but his kind eyes conveyed friendliness rather than displeasure. As I stood there, unsure, he came over, took my hand, and continued speaking in a language I didn\u2019t understand. He then gestured for me to come closer to the birdcage, sitting down and encouraging me to take more photos. I managed a stiff smile and snapped a few shots while he smiled back at me.<\/p>\n

Feeling reassured by his friendliness, I took several portraits of him and his birds. When we finished, he stood up, shook my hand in farewell, and returned to his rest. Back at the guesthouse in Chefchaouen, I asked the owner about the encounter, but he couldn\u2019t explain it either. He noted that most Moroccan Arabs, especially the elderly, are generally reluctant to be photographed.<\/p>\n

Morocco is indeed a magical country, and I find it difficult to truly understand its people through just a few trips and conversations. This only deepens my curiosity, driving me to engage with more locals without feeling fatigued. However, one thing I struggled to recall was the cuisine. Morocco offers a variety of delicious dishes, with most restaurant menus showcasing a mix of Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisine, usually in French and Arabic, with few options in English. I only encountered one menu in a Chefchaouen Chinese restaurant that featured Chinese, French, and English.<\/p>\n

In larger city restaurants, appetizers often included shrimp and salads, while main dishes typically featured Moroccan specialties like lamb with couscous or pasta. In smaller towns, options were limited to tagine, mashed potatoes, and fried meatballs. Throughout my journey to the Sahara Desert, I had tagine at every meal, to the point where just the sight of it made me feel nauseous.<\/p>\n

Traditional Moroccan tagine is a dish cooked in a tagine pot, combining chicken, onions, tomatoes, raisins, cilantro, and Moroccan saffron with spices like pepper, turmeric, paprika, and cinnamon, similar to a hot pot, and generally a healthier way to eat. After returning home, I avoided hot pot for quite some time, possibly due to my overexposure to tagine.<\/p>\n

Traveling in Morocco is best done by self-driving or independently, avoiding group tours. The slow pace of life, the historical layers of old towns, handmade crafts, and diverse characters all require time to appreciate. Without knowledge of French or Arabic, it\u2019s advisable to download translation apps to communicate with locals, which makes the journey much more enjoyable. I prefer staying in guesthouses, particularly local Riad-style accommodations, but it\u2019s essential to take the time to find clean places where the staff can speak English, ideally those with strong design and artistic ambiance.<\/p>\n

Interacting with locals during my travels always leaves a profound impression on me; happy and unhappy moments occur daily, and I record these events as material for my work, allowing me to reflect on and better understand society.<\/p>\n

Published in Hong Kong\u2019s “Chaoyou” magazine in 2018.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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