{"id":584,"date":"2019-12-09T20:34:55","date_gmt":"2019-12-09T12:34:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/120.24.183.239\/?p=584"},"modified":"2024-12-19T18:46:40","modified_gmt":"2024-12-19T10:46:40","slug":"zaidongjingdeyutianhekafei","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/austinzhang.com\/?p=584","title":{"rendered":"\u5728\u6771\u4eac\u7684\u96e8\u5929\u559d\u5496\u5561 Drinking coffee on a rainy day in Tokyo"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a>
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\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\u96e2\u958b\u3002
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\n\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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\n\u6771\u4eac\u7684\u96e8\u5929\u5f88\u6709\u610f\u601d\uff0c\u9047\u5230\u96e8\u5929\uff0c\u6211\u53ea\u80fd\u5728\u5496\u5561\u9928\u88e1\u559d\u5496\u5561\uff0c\u537b\u505c\u6b62\u4e86\u62cd\u651d\u3002\u7c97\u7565\u7b97\u4e00\u4e0b\uff0c\u5728\u6771\u4eac\u559d\u5496\u5561\u7684\u6642\u9593\u9084\u6bd4\u6211\u62cd\u651d\u591a\uff0c\u800c\u6771\u4eac\u7684\u96e8\u5929\u6210\u5c31\u4e86\u6211\u5728\u6771\u4eac\u559d\u5496\u5561\u7684\u7fd2\u6163\u3002<\/p>\n

\u767c\u8868\u4e8e\u9999\u6e2f\u300a\u6f6e\u904a\u300b2018.10<\/p>\n

I have been to Japan many times, visiting almost every city from south to north, yet I still feel unfamiliar with it. Perhaps I don’t understand Japan, and the language barrier makes communication with Japanese people quite difficult. Whenever I think about this, I compare my lack of understanding of Japan with my familiarity with Cuba and Iceland, where I can freely communicate with locals in English and Spanish.<\/p>\n

Ultimately, it’s a matter of cultural customs; Japanese people tend to be more reserved and it\u2019s not easy to become close friends in a short time. Therefore, simply going there to film and getting to know a few people doesn’t allow for the same depth of conversation as in Cuba and Iceland.<\/p>\n

In my “Dream” series of works, one of the main filming locations is Tokyo, alongside Cuba, Taipei, and Hong Kong.<\/p>\n

One of them. It gives me the impression of a hurried and cold city, with tired commuters in the subway, people rushing down the streets, and solitary diners quietly having dinner in restaurants at night. The cafes are scattered throughout, always filled with many people, seemingly contrasting with Tokyo’s indifference. During my days filming in Tokyo, I often encountered rainy weather, which I felt brought my topics closer to the atmosphere I wanted. The cafes became my frequent refuge; I would find a window seat to sit down, allowing my camera to capture the scenes outside at any moment.<\/p>\n

One time, a friend invited me to a caf\u00e9 for breakfast around 7 o’clock, and it was raining that morning. As we left the subway station, the fine rain dampened our clothes, but we took some photos along the way to protect the camera. We stopped at a storefront that was easy to miss, and my friend mentioned we had arrived, so we climbed the narrow staircase to the third floor.<\/p>\n

Upon entering through a small door, we found a long bar with a few customers already there. My friend greeted them and led me to a window seat. She chatted with a middle-aged woman preparing coffee and told me that this caf\u00e9 had been around for 67 years. I was encouraged to choose my favorite cup from the shelf, where no two were alike. I picked a blue-and-white porcelain cup and ordered a double espresso. My friend ordered a ham sandwich, fried eggs, and orange juice.<\/p>\n

Next to us, an elderly lady had been quietly sipping her coffee since we arrived. With her silver hair and wrinkled face, she looked to be over 70. My friend said she was in her 80s and lived on this street, having breakfast there every day. When she married and moved to Tokyo 20 years ago, she lived nearby and often came for coffee, always seeing the elderly lady.<\/p>\n

The busy middle-aged woman behind the bar was the owner’s daughter and was very familiar with the elderly lady; they chatted freely. When she was a child helping her father in the caf\u00e9, the elderly lady would come with her husband and daughter. Afterward, she came with just her daughter when her husband passed away, and eventually, she came alone after her daughter died. For many years now, the elderly lady has sat in the same spot almost every morning, drinking coffee and having breakfast.<\/p>\n

Tokyo’s rain is usually light, and people like to carry umbrellas when they go out. I don\u2019t enjoy carrying one, so when it rains, I wait in a caf\u00e9 for it to stop, which also helps protect my camera. Whether on the main streets or in the alleys, I can always easily find a caf\u00e9.<\/p>\n

Once, I was at a coffee bar in the corner of a large department store, having coffee to wait out the rain while chatting with the owner. He looked to be around 60 years old and managed this corner caf\u00e9, which had only three high stools outside. Seeing that it was inconvenient for me to drink coffee while holding my camera, he kindly offered to put it on the small bar counter for me.<\/p>\n

Two middle-aged women nearby joined our conversation about cameras and photography. The owner\u2019s English was just understandable, but the two women relied on him for translation. When he asked where I was from and I replied, “China,” they all fell silent, and time seemed to freeze. At that moment, I didn\u2019t know what to say next, nor did I know what they were thinking. At that time, the negotiations between China and Japan regarding the Diaoyu Islands were at a standstill. Later, I asked some Japanese friends about it, and they explained that right-wing sentiments are quite loud in Japan, and negative media coverage affects ordinary people. However, Japanese people generally don\u2019t pay much attention to politics.<\/p>\n

Tokyo’s rain gives me a sense of comfort; walking on the streets after the rain, the moist and fresh air alleviates the hustle and bustle of the crowded city. At this moment, my desire to capture images is strong, and I can always find scenes that satisfy me. I was surprised by the abundance of caf\u00e9s in Tokyo. Later, I researched online and found that Japanese coffee merchants annually purchase large quantities of premium coffee from countries like Jamaica, Cuba, and Panama, usually reserving all of it. They also source coffee from other regions to meet Japan’s coffee consumption demands.<\/p>\n

When I visit caf\u00e9s in Tokyo, as well as in Fukuoka, Kyoto, and Hokkaido, I try to choose non-chain establishments to experience different characteristics. In fact, many unique caf\u00e9s are tucked away in inconspicuous alleys, with only a few seats, but they are cozy, often serving homemade pastries alongside coffee. Japanese sweets are not overly sweet or greasy, and sitting at a street corner with a cup of espresso and a glass of water, I watch the hurried Japanese people.<\/p>\n

Although there is no verbal communication, the surrounding environment and culture often make me feel as if I am in a city in China. Sometimes, when the caf\u00e9 owner\u2019s English isn\u2019t very good, I write in Chinese, which surprisingly facilitates our communication. One caf\u00e9 owner praised my Chinese writing; he had studied it since elementary school and admired those who could write with a brush. He mentioned that many people in Japan learn Chinese and find it easier to learn than English, noting that the structure of Chinese characters is aesthetically pleasing, something that Japanese writing cannot compare to.<\/p>\n

Once, I saw someone selling what looked like pottery on the street and learned that it was a filter used for drip coffee. It was made from a type of stone, and processed into a multi-chambered filter for brewing coffee. The seller said that coffee made this way tastes completely different from coffee brewed with paper filters.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

When I paid him and was about to leave, he suddenly spoke Mandarin, and I learned that he had studied in Tokyo and was involved in sales related to coffee products. Over the past eight years, this company in Tokyo had him selling coffee equipment, decorations, coffee beans, and grounds, which not only made him proficient in coffee but also allowed him to earn enough to buy a house. He mentioned that Japanese people are very fond of drinking coffee. Although tea is Japan’s traditional beverage, coffee has attracted the younger generation. The world’s top-quality coffee beans are purchased by Japanese companies, and the most expensive coffee shops are in Tokyo, with Japan having the largest coffee consumer base. I didn\u2019t ask where the most expensive coffee shop was, knowing I wouldn\u2019t go there even if I found out. He told me that he often returns to his home country, both for business and to visit his parents. Most coffee shops domestically are fashionable, and there are many more Starbucks than in Japan. The coffee consumer base is far less extensive than in Japan, especially among those who specifically enjoy and appreciate coffee.<\/p>\n

While filming in Tokyo, I went to enjoy Kobe beef. I made a reservation two days in advance, and once seated, a middle-aged woman dressed in a kimono gracefully entered the private room to serve us. The meal took nearly three hours, and each dish felt like savoring exquisite coffee. The cafes I\u2019ve visited also serve their guests through a series of meticulous steps. The barista carefully selects coffee beans, grinds them, prepares the coffee, and allows customers to choose their favorite cups, all done with utmost precision. Is it just a cup of coffee? Japanese people carry out such rituals with it. One time, a friend invited me to eat fish at a unique auction fish restaurant in Tokyo. All seats must be reserved a few days in advance, as the restaurant needs to order a specific type of fish. When the seats are full, the auction begins, with bids, paddles raised, and hammers dropped. Twin brothers auction off a giant fish in an instant, which is then cooked to perfection and served to the guests. I also managed to get a piece of the fish, a section behind the gills. Typically, I wouldn\u2019t eat that part, as it would usually be thrown away, but after the chef\u2019s preparation, it was aromatic and delightful.<\/p>\n

After the meal, I naturally went for coffee at a street-side shop on the second floor near Ginza. Through the caf\u00e9’s large windows, I could see the bustling street below. I couldn\u2019t help but ponder a question: why do the Japanese in Tokyo seem a bit aloof? The caf\u00e9 was quiet, with many people silently looking down at their phones or books, savoring a cup of coffee for a long time without changing cups. How do cafes make money? There are indeed many who spend an entire day sipping a single cup of coffee. From the seemingly indifferent people, I found warmth in the caf\u00e9; they wouldn\u2019t proactively ask customers for refills, nor would they rush anyone to leave.<\/p>\n

I enjoy visiting Taipei in the winter to watch the rain, as the drizzles splash on the ground, with yellow leaves floating in the rainwater, conveying the winter atmosphere. The cooler weather, accompanied by rain, as I walk along Zhongxiao East Road, gives me a sense of desolation. Tokyo\u2019s rain isn\u2019t as dreary; the streets and subway exits are crowded with umbrellas of various colors and styles, all sheltering from the rain, with droplets casually falling onto the umbrella surface before quickly sliding down to the ground. No one noticed me constantly taking pictures with my camera, as I wanted to capture the people here, of course looking for warmer faces and smiles. It seems that the hurried passersby only find comfort and relaxation in the caf\u00e9. Tokyo\u2019s coffee shops don\u2019t seem to be profit-driven; rather, they are places where people escape the rain, allowing them to pause and rest. When I go to Europe, I like to sit by the window in caf\u00e9s, continuously documenting the interesting pedestrians outside. Caf\u00e9s usually have many people chatting; couples enjoy dating and talking there, occasionally kissing and expressing their affection, standing up to hug, before sitting down to continue sipping coffee. Their interest in dating and kissing surpasses their interest in coffee. In Tokyo\u2019s caf\u00e9s, you can hardly see couples on dates, let alone witness any kisses or affection. It seems that caf\u00e9s are sacred places meant for people to seek solace, but they lack a sense of passion.<\/p>\n

Tokyo\u2019s rainy days are intriguing; when it rains, I can only sit in a caf\u00e9 drinking coffee, halting my photography. Roughly speaking, I spend more time drinking coffee in Tokyo than taking pictures, and the rainy days in Tokyo have cultivated my habit of enjoying coffee there.<\/p>\n

Published in Hong Kong\u2019s “Chao You,” October 2018.<\/p>\n

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