臺北的摩托車 Taipei: The World of Motorcycles

臺北摩托車的世界。臺北的摩托車之多在世界上數一數二,而臺北摩托車秩序井然也稱得上為世界最好,沒有之一。當我站在臺北任意一條街口等交通燈是,數十輛、上百輛摩托車風馳電掣般地瞬間從眼前閃過,遇到上下班這個場景更為壯觀,幾百兩摩托車彙集在路口等候交通燈,嘟嘟嘟的發動機聲如同一部巨大的機器在待機。一天早晨,我專門去了三重方向進臺北的主要通道路口拍攝摩托車,端著相機站在高處拍下摩托車在路面等候的壯觀場景。摩托車群望不到頭,車手們佩戴頭盔,沒有人交談,人們靜靜地注視前方。那一刻仿佛空氣凝固了,摩托車的世界在這裡體現。

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臺北摩托車給遊客的印象是速度快、秩序好、場面大,車手遵守規則是重要因素,可是為了使車手遵守規則,管理機構在路面為摩托車清晰畫線,標明行駛和停車位置。就那停車來講,在任何便於停車的街道兩旁,管理機構盡可能地為摩托車畫出停車位置,解除停車後顧之憂。我很少看到街上不按規則亂停車的現象。
深圳路面看不到摩托車,因為跟北京、上海和廣州一樣禁摩(全面禁止摩托車在城市限定道路行駛),這樣做據說是考慮到摩托車帶來的廢氣排放問題、道路安全問題和人身安全問題。過去廣州、深圳和一些城市頻繁發生歹徒騎摩托車搶劫,的確危害人身和財產安全,摩托車交通事故率比較高。可是深圳禁摩後無數電動車不受任何約束在路面疾駛,電動車手不需駕駛牌照,電動車行駛也沒有以前摩托車行駛的規範制約,導致交通事故發生比例遠遠高於摩托車,管理機構開始禁電(除特許,電動車不得上路)。如果想要騎摩托,便要去沒有禁摩的周邊二線三線城市。西安禁摩多年後,最近重新允許摩托車上路,於是,很多人購買摩托車做交通工具,而更多的摩托車愛好者因為這個政策開始購買大排量摩托車過癮。可是,摩托車管理規則依然沒有改進,摩托車在路面行駛的安全性依然沒有保證。
越南胡志明市摩托車雖然沒有臺北的多,可是在上下班高峰期也稱得上壯觀,與臺北的不同在於,摩托車行駛和停放沒有規矩。在臺北,如此的摩托車海在紅燈亮時所有摩托車線上外嘎然而止,我沒有任何擔心地走過斑馬線,而在胡志明市的任何一條街我都不敢這樣走過斑馬線,因為即便有紅燈,照樣會有摩托車竄出來嚇你一跳。雖然車手技術嫺熟,不至於撞到我,可是從我作為行人的角度看,這種道路管理絕對沒有安全可言。
我一直在思考為何臺北如此多的摩托車可以這樣毫無問題地繼續增多,如果道路資源有限,私家車數量無法毫無限制地增加時,公共交通是否可以為市民帶來便利。毫無疑問,答案是肯定的,公車畢竟不能將乘客輸送到城市任何角落,在這種狀況下,市民如何選擇交通工具。就這幾個城市發展看,臺北做出典範,在公車作為城市主要交通工具的前提下,市民大多數選擇摩托車,而非私家車,因為私家車開支、維護和停車等都比摩托車沒有優勢。如果管理機構在規則和便利方面預先設計好所有環節,那麼可能大多數人願意選擇摩托車,因為它非常方便。那些把摩托車作為喜愛的車手更加不會把私家車最為行駛首選。

香港的摩托車很少,停車應該是制約它發展的主要問題。置於說騎摩托車不安全的說法,應該可以成立,狹窄的街道、密集的行人和急行的車流,對於車手來講各種不安全因素香港都具備了。管理機構並沒有因此禁摩,而是增加車手取得摩托車駕駛證的難度,從而強化駕駛技術和安全意識。
我喜歡摩托車,出去拍攝時,如果駕駛證被認可,我一定會租摩托車而非私家車出行,它為攝影帶來的便利很多,特別是停車方便。喜愛摩托車,是因為它的機械操作性、那種人車一體的感覺,那種從小就具有的騎馬、騎單車的駕馭感。如果從喜愛駕駛摩托車的角度看此事,我跟很多人一樣失去選擇的權力,無論是香港、深圳,還是北京和西安,如果想過癮,還想保證安全,臺北應該是唯一一個選擇,因為這裡時摩托車的世界。

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發表於臺灣《夢享志》2019年

Taipei boasts one of the highest numbers of motorcycles in the world, and its motorcycle order can be considered the best globally—without exception. When I stand at any street corner in Taipei waiting for the traffic light, dozens, even hundreds, of motorcycles rush by in a flash. During rush hour, the scene is even more spectacular, with hundreds of motorcycles gathering at intersections, the sound of their engines humming like a huge machine on standby. One morning, I specifically went to a major intersection leading into Taipei from the direction of Sanchong to photograph motorcycles. Standing high above with my camera, I captured the magnificent sight of motorcycles waiting on the road. The sea of bikes seemed endless, with riders wearing helmets, no one talking, all silently gazing ahead. In that moment, it was as if the air had solidified, embodying the world of motorcycles.

The impression that Taipei’s motorcycles leave on visitors is one of speed, order, and grandeur. The adherence to rules by riders is a crucial factor, and to ensure compliance, regulatory bodies have clearly marked lanes and parking spots for motorcycles on the roads. Regarding parking, management has made efforts to delineate parking spaces along any street where it is convenient, alleviating concerns about improper parking. I rarely see instances of motorcycles parked improperly on the streets.

In contrast, motorcycles are absent from Shenzhen’s roads due to a ban similar to those in Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou, which prohibits motorcycles from operating on designated urban roads. This measure is said to address concerns over emissions, road safety, and personal safety. In the past, cities like Guangzhou and Shenzhen frequently experienced robberies committed by individuals on motorcycles, which indeed posed risks to personal and property safety, as the accident rate for motorcycles is relatively high. However, after the ban in Shenzhen, countless electric vehicles began to speed through the streets without restrictions. Electric vehicle riders do not require a driving license, and their operation lacks the regulatory guidelines that previously governed motorcycles, leading to a significantly higher rate of accidents. Consequently, management began to impose bans on electric vehicles (with exceptions). If one wishes to ride a motorcycle, they must go to second- or third-tier cities where there is no motorcycle ban. After years of prohibition, Xi’an recently allowed motorcycles back on the roads, resulting in many purchasing motorcycles for transportation, while more motorcycle enthusiasts began to buy larger displacement bikes to indulge. However, motorcycle management regulations have not improved, and the safety of riding motorcycles on the roads remains unguaranteed.

In Ho Chi Minh City, while there are fewer motorcycles than in Taipei, the spectacle during rush hours is still impressive. The difference lies in the lack of rules governing motorcycle operation and parking. In Taipei, at a red light, all motorcycles come to a stop in their designated lanes; I can cross the pedestrian crossing without worry. Conversely, on any street in Ho Chi Minh City, I would hesitate to cross because, even with a red light, motorcycles still dart out unexpectedly. Although the riders are skilled enough not to hit me, from a pedestrian’s perspective, this kind of road management is certainly unsafe.

I have often pondered why Taipei can accommodate so many motorcycles without issue. If road resources are limited and the number of private cars cannot increase indefinitely, can public transport provide convenience for citizens? Undoubtedly, the answer is affirmative; buses cannot reach every corner of the city. In this situation, how do citizens choose their modes of transport? Analyzing the development of several cities, Taipei serves as a model. With buses as the primary means of urban transport, most citizens choose motorcycles over private cars, as the costs, maintenance, and parking for private cars do not offer advantages over motorcycles. If regulatory bodies pre-design all aspects regarding rules and convenience, it is likely that most people would prefer motorcycles due to their convenience. Those who are passionate about motorcycles are even less likely to consider private cars as their primary choice.

Motorcycles are scarce in Hong Kong, and parking issues are likely the main constraint on their development. The notion that riding motorcycles is unsafe is valid; narrow streets, dense pedestrian traffic, and fast-moving vehicles create various safety risks for riders. However, the management has not banned motorcycles; instead, they have made it more challenging to obtain a motorcycle license, thereby enhancing riding skills and safety awareness.

I enjoy motorcycles. When I go out to photograph, if my driving license is recognized, I would definitely rent a motorcycle instead of a car for the convenience it brings, especially in terms of parking. My love for motorcycles stems from their mechanical operation, the sense of unity between rider and machine, and that innate feeling of control reminiscent of riding horses or bicycles. From the perspective of a motorcycle enthusiast, like many others, I find myself losing the power of choice. Whether in Hong Kong, Shenzhen, Beijing, or Xi’an, if one wishes to enjoy riding while ensuring safety, Taipei should be the only option, as it is truly the world of motorcycles.

Published in Taiwan’s Dream Sharing Journal, 2019.

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