我從羅湖關進入當時還是港英管理的香港，過關花費近2小時。地鐵帶我到了上環，在那裡我搭乘叮叮車（有軌電車）去朋友公司拜訪。早晨8點左右的叮叮車上似乎每個人都看似疲憊，有人昏睡、有人閉目養神，也有少數幾個人在看報紙。晚上的叮叮車看到的情景與早上一樣，疲憊、昏睡。上環的路很窄，人們步履匆匆，沒有人願意慢下腳步，感覺有種強大的力量在推著他們往前走。香港給我的第一次感受就是壓抑，急迫和疲憊。
I entered Hong Kong, which was still under British rule at the time, through the Luohu border, spending nearly two hours to cross. The subway took me to Sheung Wan, where I took the tram to visit a friend’s company. On the tram around 8 a.m., everyone seemed fatigued; some were dozing off, some were resting with their eyes closed, and a few were reading newspapers. The scene on the tram in the evening was similar to that in the morning—exhaustion and dozing. The streets of Sheung Wan are narrow, and people walk briskly, with no one willing to slow down; it felt like a powerful force was pushing them forward. My first impression of Hong Kong was one of oppression, urgency, and fatigue.
從那以後的每一年，我都會去香港一段時間，拜訪我的客戶-他們中大部分是律師、會計師和銀行，還有些是上市公司的法務主管。我的腳步非常塊地適應香港節奏，毫不誇張地講是健步如飛，我突然意識到我很喜歡這樣的節奏。我在辦公室裡會面的每一個人都是聚精會神地商討事情，沒有廢話和客套，談完即告別。這讓我想起第一次到港在上環看到上下班的人們疲憊的狀態，我意識到了效率的實質，在香港完美體現出來。
在定居香港前，每年去港與客戶開會或拜訪他們都是提前幾個月或半年約好具體日期和時間，那時候普遍使用傳真確認。在與他們會面前無需再次確認，幾個月後按照約定日期時間不差份秒我會出現在他們面前，這讓我很差異，因為去歐洲、北美和南美跟客戶開會，約定時間後往往在會面臨近要再次電話確認。住在香港後，我與客戶依然延續這樣的方式，所以一年後的活動我都會始前安排好。我的秘書會很仔細地確認所有細節，列印日程並提前一周提醒我每個客戶的詳細位址、交通路線和門牌單雙號或寫字樓入口。因為，香港門牌單雙號也許在街對面，要走一段路找到斑馬線才能過街。
各個商會活動和一些商業社交活動一般都會安排在下午5點左右，雞尾酒會、商業社交派對、沙龍和專業研討會等等是香港商業精英聚集的場所，也是結交商業夥伴的最好時機。有客戶約我來公司拜會，也會按照一種習慣安排時間，就是排期，幾個月，一個月或者幾個星期以後的某一天的某個時間。這是一種守信的表現，也是商業社會必須具備的基本素質。在幾百次約會中，也發生過按照約定時間去了找不到人的，這種幾率很小，一般是因為客戶遷址我們沒有收到通知。偶爾約定的合夥人臨時無法出席，其他合夥人或負責人也會出席，所以我體會到了一種秩序。
Since then, every year I would spend some time in Hong Kong visiting my clients—most of whom are lawyers, accountants, and bankers, along with some legal heads of listed companies. I quickly adapted my pace to the rhythm of Hong Kong, and it’s no exaggeration to say that I moved at a brisk speed. I suddenly realized that I really enjoyed this pace. Everyone I met in the office was focused on discussing matters, with no small talk or pleasantries, and once the conversation ended, we would part ways. This reminded me of my first visit to Hong Kong, where I saw the weary faces of people commuting in Sheung Wan, and I realized the essence of efficiency, which is perfectly embodied in Hong Kong.
Before settling in Hong Kong, each year I would schedule meetings or visits with clients months or even half a year in advance, usually confirming through fax. There was no need to reconfirm before meeting them; months later, I would appear at the agreed date and time without fail. This was a stark contrast to my experiences in Europe, North America, and South America, where I often had to call to confirm as the meeting approached. After living in Hong Kong, I continued this practice with my clients, so I would plan activities a year in advance. My secretary would meticulously confirm all the details, print the schedule, and remind me a week in advance of each client’s address, transport routes, and whether the building was an odd or even-numbered entrance. This is important because in Hong Kong, odd and even-numbered addresses might be across the street, requiring a bit of walking to find the crosswalk.
Various chamber of commerce activities and some business social events are generally scheduled around 5 PM, with cocktail parties, business social gatherings, salons, and professional seminars being prime venues for business elites to gather, serving as the best opportunities to network. When clients invite me to their offices, there’s also a customary practice of scheduling a time, whether it’s a few months, a month, or a few weeks in the future. This is a demonstration of trustworthiness and is a fundamental quality necessary in the business community. Among the hundreds of appointments, there were instances when I arrived at the agreed time only to find no one there; this was rare and usually because the client had relocated without notifying us. Occasionally, if a scheduled partner could not attend, other partners or responsible persons would be present, so I have come to appreciate a sense of order.
定居香港不久，我就習慣了步履匆匆。去中環律師行、銀行、上市公司或會計師行開會，我計算好時間。從海港城寫字樓到尖沙咀地鐵站步行5分鐘，進站乘地鐵過海到中環目的地9分鐘，中間不會有耽誤，一般我會留夠15到20分鐘。每一分鐘在香港都很重要，都會帶來收益或損失，這讓我感受到時間就是金錢的道理。
住在香港，我全身的細胞都處於高度緊張的狀態，好像一個開足馬力的引擎拼命運轉。即使吃飯、酒吧喝酒或去爬山，我都會約了客戶一起順便聊聊生意。相比我住在拉丁美洲、北美和歐洲，那裡的節奏完全不能與香港比擬。義大利和西班牙的商業活動始終在散漫中進行，不要期望一天之內可以談完事情，一頓飯可以吃幾個小時，他們還需要睡午覺；拉丁美洲的商業約會必須在事前的幾天、幾小時多次確認，未按約定時間遲到半小時開會再正常不過，往往不能像在香港我可以一個小時一個會這樣安排，最多時一天安排8個會。拉丁美洲的會一天安排3-4個已經很不錯了，有些約會被臨時取消，因為我不能沒有底線的等待。不是不尊重的問題，失約的理由很充分，我也理解，失約的客戶也會隨後來公司拜訪我，解釋和道歉，當然我也同樣會讓他們等待至少半小時，有時候也會玩失蹤，讓他們記住失約是多麼不好。在歐洲與客戶開會，聊完以後或者吃飯、或者找個地方喝酒或咖啡，辦公室裡聊生意，外面幾乎不談生意，更多地聊彼此的生活、家庭、教育和經歷。多年以後，這些生意夥伴成為朋友，即使他們離開生意，我們在香港和歐洲見面仍然是朋友。不過，即使這樣，我依然無法讓心靜下來，無法找到一處讓心安靜的地方。
在香港，生意就是生意，一個小時的會面談到第50分鐘時我們會看時間立刻終止結束會議，沒有時間談生意之外的事。如果約了吃飯喝酒，主題還是離不開生意。外出爬山，參加party或者出海時也許可以聊聊生活，可是所謂的生活在香港來講不是歐洲的生活、拉丁美洲的生活或者中國的生活，可以講，香港沒有生活。當然這樣的描述也許偏頗，我理解的生活是遠離商業的生活，不是生活中還要參雜著生意的生活。有人說香港人不會享受生活，這話不一定正確，卻描述了香港的真實狀態，在香港很難找到一處類似臺北一條小巷裡的咖啡廳、或一個小小的茶室，安安靜靜的，可以讀書思考的，可以發呆的；很難找到類似大理、呼倫貝爾一個村子或一個地方，可以看到山水、草原，坐在小院或者民宿花園靜心養神。一切充斥商業，時間是金錢，即使在離島或者赤柱找到一處咖啡館或者酒吧安靜地坐在那裡讀書思考半天，也會不斷被掛在天花板下的電視裡一些雜亂的資訊打擾，因為這裡缺乏休閒文化，缺乏安靜。生活在這裡的人的使命就是生意和賺錢。
After settling in Hong Kong, I quickly got used to the fast-paced lifestyle. When attending meetings at law firms, banks, listed companies, or accounting firms in Central, I would meticulously calculate my time. Walking from the Harbour City office to the Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station takes about five minutes, and the subway ride across the harbor to Central takes nine minutes. I wouldn’t allow for any delays, typically leaving an extra 15 to 20 minutes. Every minute in Hong Kong is crucial, as it can bring profit or loss, which reinforced my understanding of the saying that time is money.
Living in Hong Kong, every cell in my body felt like it was in a state of high tension, akin to an engine running at full throttle. Even when dining, drinking at bars, or hiking, I would arrange to meet clients to casually discuss business. Compared to my experiences in Latin America, North America, and Europe, the pace of life there cannot compare to Hong Kong. In Italy and Spain, business activities unfold leisurely; one should not expect to conclude matters in a single day, and a meal can stretch over several hours, often accompanied by a mandatory siesta. In Latin America, business meetings require multiple confirmations days or hours in advance, and it’s not uncommon to start a meeting half an hour late. Unlike Hong Kong, where I can schedule a meeting every hour and sometimes have eight in a day, in Latin America, three to four meetings in a day is already quite good. Some appointments may get canceled last minute, as I cannot wait indefinitely. It’s not a matter of disrespect; the reasons for missing appointments are usually valid. I understand that clients who miss appointments will often visit my office later to explain and apologize. Of course, I might also keep them waiting for at least half an hour, sometimes even going missing myself, to make them realize how unprofessional it is to miss appointments.
In Europe, after meetings, we would either have a meal or find a place for drinks or coffee. Conversations in the office often focus on business, while outside, we rarely discuss work, instead talking about life, family, education, and experiences. Over the years, these business partners become friends, and even if they leave the business, we still meet as friends in Hong Kong or Europe. However, despite this, I still cannot calm my mind or find a place to feel at peace.
In Hong Kong, business is strictly business. During a one-hour meeting, when we reach the 50-minute mark, we would immediately check the time and wrap up the meeting without discussing anything outside of business. Even when dining or drinking, the conversation inevitably circles back to business. Outdoor activities like hiking, attending parties, or going out to sea might allow for some casual talk about life, but what we refer to as “life” in Hong Kong is not the same as in Europe, Latin America, or China. One could argue that there is no real life in Hong Kong. Of course, this description may be biased; my understanding of life is one that is free from business entanglements, not one where life is mixed with commercial interests.
Some say that Hong Kong people do not enjoy life, which may not be entirely accurate but does reflect the reality of Hong Kong; it’s challenging to find a cozy café in a quiet alley like in Taipei, or a small tea house where one can read, think, or daydream peacefully. It’s hard to find a village or place like Dali or Hulunbuir, where you can enjoy the mountains and grasslands, sitting in a courtyard or garden of a guesthouse to relax and rejuvenate. Everything here is saturated with commerce, and time equates to money. Even if I manage to find a café or bar in the outlying islands or Stanley to sit quietly and read or think for half a day, I would still be disrupted by the chaotic information displayed on the television hanging from the ceiling. There is a lack of leisure culture and tranquility here; the mission of the people living in Hong Kong revolves around business and making money.
1995年我去過一次臺北，由於滯留時間短，對於臺北沒有太多印象。定居香港後，由於由臺灣的客戶，我便時不時去臺北，漸漸地發現臺北的氛圍適合我。生活節奏不如香港那樣緊張，人們按部就班地做事，但是絕對不是慢慢悠悠，我的感覺是從容。有時候我與客戶會約在咖啡館或茶館，我的客戶大部分都是律師或者銀行高管，在這裡聊聊生意，更多時間我們聊聊生活和文化。
在臺北的小巷子裡，咖啡館和茶館很多都不大，個性十足，安安靜靜，坐一天也沒問題。我還問朋友，這樣能賺錢嗎？臺北的安逸和靜謐是一種氛圍，人們從內心顯示出泰然，我不認為在這種狀態下臺北不是商業社會，相反，我的業務依然在臺北長進，只是我和客戶之間多了心的交流。比較香港和臺北，看似陳舊低矮的建築卻使臺北煥發出文化沉澱的精彩。在那些樓宇下不顯眼的小鋪子裡，我淘到自己喜歡的黑膠碟、德式座鐘、休閒時裝，還有舊相機。更多時間，我會去書店尋找文化、歷史等方面的書，臺北在出版圖書方面不但類別多，而且很多書作者觀點新穎，令人耳目一新。文化使臺北的特徵，我不在乎街區和建築的舊，我在乎的是一座城市是否由自己的文化，相對而言我更喜歡漫步在臺北的小巷子裡，吃點小吃，與那裡友善的店主聊聊天，通常如果他們不忙都喜歡跟我聊聊，我順便為他們拍攝，記錄生活。
我喜歡冬季的臺北，“冬季到臺北來看雨”是每次冬天到了臺北時心裡的主題歌。雨中的一切似乎把我帶入童話裡，半夢半醒地坐在一處街角咖啡館看著路人走過。黃色褐色樹葉隨風飄落在被雨水浸濕的路面，看似淒涼，卻讓我很享受，人生何不讓自己處在一段淒涼的狀態下呢？就像享受孤獨一般，讓心靜下來。
發表於臺灣《夢享志》2019.10
In 1995, I visited Taipei once, but my short stay left me with little impression of the city. After settling in Hong Kong and having Taiwanese clients, I found myself visiting Taipei from time to time, gradually discovering that the atmosphere there suited me. The pace of life is not as hectic as in Hong Kong; people go about their tasks methodically, but it is not slow. I feel a sense of calm. Sometimes, I meet clients at cafes or tea houses, most of whom are lawyers or bank executives. While we discuss business, we also spend a lot of time talking about life and culture.
In the small alleys of Taipei, many cafes and tea houses are quite small but full of character, allowing for a peaceful day spent sitting there. I often ask friends if such places can make money. The tranquility and serenity of Taipei create an atmosphere where people appear composed from within. I don’t believe Taipei is not a commercial society in this state; on the contrary, my business continues to grow there, and I have developed a deeper connection with my clients.
Comparing Hong Kong and Taipei, the seemingly old and low buildings endow Taipei with a vibrant cultural depth. In those inconspicuous little shops beneath the buildings, I find vinyl records, German-style clocks, casual clothing, and old cameras that I love. I also spend more time in bookstores searching for books on culture and history. Taipei offers a wide variety of publications, and many authors present fresh perspectives that are truly enlightening. Culture characterizes Taipei; I don’t care about the age of the districts and buildings, but rather whether a city has its own culture. In relative terms, I prefer wandering through the small alleys of Taipei, sampling street food, and chatting with friendly shop owners. Usually, if they’re not busy, they enjoy talking with me, and I take the opportunity to photograph them and document life.
I enjoy winter in Taipei. “Come to Taipei to see the rain in winter” is the theme song in my heart every time I arrive in winter. Everything in the rain seems to transport me into a fairy tale, as I sit half-awake in a street corner cafe watching pedestrians pass by. Yellow and brown leaves drift down with the wind onto the rain-soaked pavement, appearing desolate yet enjoyable. Why not allow oneself to be in a state of melancholy? It’s like savoring solitude, calming the heart.
Published in Taiwan’s “Dream Sharing” in October 2019.